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Soap is something that should be in every personal emergency kit, but it’s one item that is often overlooked. Why is soap so important? Because it cleans stuff. Seriously, it does.

Keeping things clean might be a lower priority for you during an emergency, but it’s something you really need to think about. You need to think about it on a personal comfort level, and on a first aid level. Soap can keep infections away, and help you feel more comfortable. Both are important.

We can die from a simple infection. I know that it’s largely unheard of in developed society, but when it all hits the fan, we might not have the simple stuff that modern life gives us. We might not have any medical care available, clean facilities, or even a disinfectant. In cases like this, cleaning a wound with soap and water might keep you healthy enough to go on.

Even if you’re not injured, soap can go a long way to feeling comfortable. If you don’t have the opportunity to bathe, you might start to feel icky. And if you live in a humid area, you might start to grow fungus in some uncomfortable spots. I’m talking about your feet and your crotch region. You don’t want anything growing there. A simple quick wash with some soap and water can help keep that fungus at bay. For people who grew up in a dry climate, but then find themselves bugging out during the summer in a humid climate, this can be a problem.

Keep soap in your bug out bag so that you can enjoy a bit of comfort, and maybe keep a wound from getting a dangerous infection.

Water is a vital necessity. Without it, we won’t last beyond a few short days. Unfortunately, water is heavy, so putting a bunch in your bug out bag can hurt as much as it helps. If your bag is too heavy, you’ll move slowly, tire more easily, and use up more of the water in your body than you need to.

So how do you find some middle ground? How do you carry enough water so that you aren’t weighed down too much? The easy solution is to carry water and a water purification system. That way, you have some water to drink right away, and you have something to make most found water drinkable.

Natural water sources, such as lakes, streams, and rivers contain bacteria that you don’t want in your system. You know, the bottom fall out of your world and the world falling out of your bottom type of stuff — best to avoid that. Once you finish up the water you brought with you, you’ll need to sterilize or filter (or do both) water so you can drink it without making yourself sick.

I recommend carrying some type of water bottle (extra, beyond the couple of store-bought sealed bottles of water or Gatorade that you packed in your BOB). This can be a military canteen, a Naglene bottle, or anything similar. Then, have some type of purification process and supplies packed in your bag, too. I’m not going to go into the specifics of that here, but you can find a wide variety of camping-oriented water purification systems on the market. Any sporting goods store should have something you can use.

By carrying water or a sports drink that you can access right away, you won’t have to stop to purify water if you are in the middle of bugging out. Once you get to a safe place, you can collect and purify more water for drinking and cooking. Using this type of system, you’ll be able to keep your pack weight down while still addressing your basic survival needs.

I’m not sure if it’s the price of gas over the last couple of years, or just the economy in general, but MREs are more expensive than they used to be. While unfortunate, things like this are just going to happen. It seems like everything is more expensive than it was a few years ago.

But don’t worry. You can still pick up MREs at reasonable rates. I’m a firm believer in MREs — keeping them around for your bug out bag, bug-in disasters, or just to take with you when you head into the wild for some outdoor fun.

Here are the current prices on MREs at BDR Gear.

MRE Case – 12 Pack – No Heater: $88.75 ($7.40 per meal)

MRE Case – 12 Pack – WIth Heater: $92.99 ($7.75 per meal)

On a per-meal basis, they cost about the same as a fast-food meal for one. These, however, provide a lot more nutritional value and have a much longer shelf life. Perfect for bugging out (or in), and affordable, too.

Grab a case and divide it up amongst your family’s bug out bags, or just keep the meals where you need them. I’m going to have a video review of these meals soon, so you’ll be able to see exactly what comes in each one, and how big it is. The size is important for determining how many you will put in a bug out bag, get home bag, or even a purse (if you carry one).

Subscribe to the newsletter for notice of that post.

Winter Backpacking Survival Tips
By Steven Gillman

Why do you need survival tips for winter backpacking? Because even with the most careful planning there is always a greater risk with winter camping. Of course, getting lost or having an accident is always a possibility, but cold weather makes either of these a more serious matter.

Winter Survival Tip Number One

Stay warm! This is obvious. Hypothermia is the single biggest danger for backpackers, killing far more people than accidents or wild animals. What isn’t always so obvious is how poor planning and not thinking on the trail leads to getting cold.

One cold autumn day, a friend of mine fell in a stream while we were backpacking. He was soon chilled pretty severely. He naturally thought this was just an accident, but looking back on it now, it is clear that we didn’t have a proper survival mind set.

Streams have to be crossed, of course, but we were crossing this one as evening approached. A better plan would have been to get the hiking done earlier in the day. Why? Because it leaves time to deal with accidents like this. It may have been sunny enough to get his clothes dried before nightfall, and it is always easier to find fuel for a fire in the daylight.

In addition, we knew the rocks were slippery, yet we crossed as we were. Seeing the potential for a fall, we could have removed our coats and put them in a plastic bag until we were across. Had we taken this simple precaution, my friend would have at least had a dry coat to put on later.

Had this happened in colder weather (it was above freezing) it could have been very serious. You have to stay warm to survive. To stay warm it helps to stay dry. To stay dry, you have to think.

Insulation

Staying warm is about staying insulated. The value of insulation is determined by the thickness of the air around you that isn’t moving. This is the air trapped in your down coat, and between layers of clothing. Always think in terms of insulation thickness. In planning, this means you need more “loft”in your sleeping bag in winter, and more (or thicker) layers of clothing.

In a survival situation, this means you should immediately look for a way to create more insulation. This can mean setting your sleeping bag on a pile of leaves, or sleeping under a pile of dried grass. You might even stuff your jacket (if it is loose) with the fluff from cattail or milkweed plants, in order to increase the insulation value.

More Winter Backpacking Survival Tips

- Check the weather report before you go, and plan accordingly.

- Be careful when it is near or just above freezing. It is easier to get wet than when it is really cold.

- Drink enough fluids. Dehydration can cause a drop in body temperature.

- Down coats are great – if you can keep them dry. They are almost worthless when wet.

- Avoid sweating, to avoid getting chilled from the moisture later.

- Don’t use cotton clothes in winter, because they get wet easily and then don’t insulate well.

- Have more than one way to start a fire (matches, lighter, fire starter, skills).

- Learn to make a fire in cold wet conditions, and practice.

In 2006, I was trying to climb Crestone Peak here in Colorado, after an early snow. I gave up at about 13,000 in four feet of snow. I was in running shoes, and was soaked from the knees down. It would be below freezing that night, and I had just a tarp and 17-ounce sleeping bag. Does that sound risky? I was actually well prepared.

First of all, it was clear and sunny, and forecast to remain so for days. Back down near the lakes the snow was patchy, with many areas of dry grass. I quickly made a thick mattress of dry grass and thistle stalks to sleep on. I had quit early, so I had many hours to dry my shoes, socks and pants in the sun. They were completely dry long before dark.

As a back-up plan, I had a small fire laid, with a piece of bark covering it in case of rain or snow (I never needed to light it). I drank plenty of water and had fatty foods, which create heat as they digest. I also had more dry socks, and other necessary supplies, despite my 11-pound total pack weight. As you can see, survival when winter backpacking is as much about planning and thinking as it is about good gear.

Copyright Steve Gillman. To get the ebook “Ultralight Backpacking Secrets (And Wilderness Survival Tips)” for FREE, as well as photos, gear recommendations, and a new wilderness survival section, visit: http://www.The-Ultralight-Site.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Steven_Gillman
Winter Backpacking Survival Tips

If you are in the market for a new multi-tool, check out the Gerber 600. I’ve got one and it’s pretty good. Here’s a little video review of it — more of a run-down of it’s details, really.

Interested? You can pick one up at BDR Gear: Gerber Multi-Plier 600

I went to the range yesterday and got my rifle basically where it needs to be. I’ve got a 100 yard indoor rifle range here, which is nice. I had bore sighted the rifle using a laser bore sighter, but I still had to work a bit to get the rounds to land where they needed.

After a while I got it working really good. Now let’s see if I can find some deer!

Here is a how-to great article about recycling an old circular saw blade into a nice guthook knife. Use it for hunting, toss it your bug out bag… Read the article here:

How to Make a Guthook Knife from an Old Saw Blade

I’ve got my scope mounted on my weaver base, and I’m ready to bore sight. I think I’ll pick up a laser bore sighter and use that to get the scope set up initially. Then I’ll work on zeroing it.

I’m really looking forward to some pin-point accuracy with such a fun and functional rifle. I’ll need to do this all within the next few weeks, as modern gun deer season starts soon. I’m going to scout some in the woods this weekend while squirrel hunting. Hopefully I’ll see some good deer sign. Maybe they haven’t moved very far from where they were last year.

I hope that this season is better than last year. The weather was so screwed up, I don’t think the deer knew what to do with themselves. It would be a shame if I didn’t even get to test this rifle out in the field because everything is screwy again this year. Here’s to hoping for the best…

Here’s a little slide show video I put together of my scope base project:

Rifle: Marlin 336

Hardware: Weaver two-piece scope base for Marlin 336

Tools: 2 flat head screwdrivers – one tiny, one regular

I’ve decided to put a scope on my beloved Marlin 336 .30-30 lever action rifle. It’s such a great rifle, but I want to improve my chances of filling the freezer with venison this year. Here’s how I did it.

First off, Marlin 336 comes drilled and tapped for a scope. But there isn’t a base and there aren’t any rings. So you’ll have to buy them if you want to mount a scope. And, of course, you’ll have to buy a scope, too.

First, locate the screws:

The screws are small, so you’ll need a small flat-head screwdriver. I used the largest one in my little jewelry-type driver set.

Here are the removed screws:

Now we can see the mount points clearly. They go all the way through the receiver. If you are going to use some type of screw adhesive, do it very carefully! You don’t want to get any in the action.

Here is the two-part base I’m going to mount on the rifle. It’s a Weaver base made for the Marlin 336 and similar rifles. The package lists all compatible rifles on the back. Here are the mounts:

I just used a standard small-ish flat-head driver to mount the bases. It was super easy. They line up just right, and I can still use the iron sights if there is no scope mounted. Here are a couple of shots of the completed job:

and

The job took only a couple of minutes total, and that includes stopping to take some photos. Now I just need to decide what scope I want on it. I’m on a budget this year, so it will have to be an inexpensive model. I guess it’s back to Wal-Mart after I get paid again!

Maxpedition gear is now available at BDR Gear. Here’s the page with all the current products: Maxpedition Gear. Based on all of the reports and reviews I’ve seen so far, the Maxpedition line is top notch. I’m talking gear suited for both every day use and while working in hostile conditions.

I’ve been carrying all of my daily gear around in a messenger bag, but after seen the Maxpedition gear, I think I’m going to have to upgrade. Even though it’s big, I’m going to go for the Maxpedition Colossus Versipack. That should have plenty of room to carry my gear…and then some.

Sure, I’ll have a man-purse, also known as a “murse,” but who cares? I usually have to wear something with cargo pockets every day, just so I can fit all of my gear. If I start carrying around a gear bag everywhere, then that means less junk for my pockets. And that means two things: 1) I’ll be more comfortable while carrying my gear around, and 2) I’ll have more style choices when choosing my pants.

On top of all that, this bag will probably make a really good get home bag. Well, I guess that’s what it will end up being if I use it as an EDC (every day carry) bag.

When I get it, I’ll take some pictures and write up a review. I might even get adventurous and video the review for you. In the mean time, head over there and take a look. Who knows… you might find something you’ve gotta have.

Survival Kits. Bug out bags. Disaster prep kits. They are all the same basic thing: Gear you may need in an emergency. A large disaster will likely require all of the gear in your kit, but other times you just may need one or two things. Being prepared is the smart thing to do.

A survival kit is basically a bag (usually a backpack) that is filled with emergency items. Some of these items would be food, water, first aid supplies, a knife, a poncho, and similar. The actual contents of any emergency kit should meet your particular needs, but there are some staple items common among all emergency gear kits — which would be what I named a moment ago.

At the very least, each person should have a bag packed and ready to go that contains food, water, and something for warmth. Fortunately, there are some pre-made solutions out there — emergency gear packs with the gear already packed in them. All you do is add some customizations to meet your particular needs, and you’re good to go. There’s no need to spend a bundle of money and a lot of time buying all the gear individually, unless you just want to.

Emergencies happen all the time, but not everywhere at the same time. Even something as simple as a tornado warning is cause enough to grab your gear bag. The world doesn’t have to be at war for you to be ready to take care of yourself if you ever need to.

You can see some ready-made survival kits at BDR Gear.

Tips For Buying a Rifle Scope
By Brady Ritsema

When you are considering buying a rifle scope, you’ll soon come up against more choices than you know what to do with! If you last bought a scope several years ago, or you have never owned one at all, the variety of scopes can leave you a little bit concerned about which one is the best choice for you. When you are thinking about getting a scope, you’ll find that your choice can be much simpler if you only keep a few things in mind. Remember that the best scope is not necessarily the most expensive one; it will be the one that suits you the best.

The first thing to think about is what conditions you will be hunting in. Some people only hunt in fair to good conditions, while others take a real pride in going out regardless of the weather. Take some time to read the fine print, and figure out what conditions your rifle scope can deal with. For instance, you’ll find that Bushnell rifle scopes are known for their water-repellent lens coating, making them a natural choice in rain, sleet or even snow.

Also, you’ll find that you will want a rifle scope where the size of the forward lens, also known as the objective lens is one that is comfortable for you. The larger this lens is, the brighter the view will be. If you often hunt in low-light conditions, like daybreak or dusk, you’ll find that the more clearly it will show you your target. Make sure that you test out these lenses if at all possible. Keep in mind that there is a drawback in that the larger the forward lens is, the further forward it will need to be mounted on the gun and the less natural your sighting process will be. Make sure that you are comfortable with the amount of adjustment that you need to do.

You’ll also find that some lenses are known for their all-purpose durability. For instance, the Nikon rifle scopes are known for their endurance no matter what the condition, and many have praised it’s crystal clear edge-to-edge view. You’ll find that these lenses have also be coated with several layers of anti-reflective compounds, thus improving your vision will preventing you from spooking your prey with a tell-tale glint.

As always, whenever you are thinking about purchasing something that carries an impressive price tag, remember that you will want to get a warranty with it. No matter how reliable the company, and Bushnell rifescopes and Nikon riflescopes are known for their reliability, it is still possible that there is a problem with the product. If you have a warranty, you can make sure that you recoup your money and get a replacement if there is some sort of factory defect. Similarly, make sure that the rifle scope has a great deal of adjustment available to you; some hunters will refuse to buy rifle scopes that don’t have at least 60 inches of adjustment available.

Take some time to figure out what you really need from your rifle scope, and then look around and make sure that you get it it!

Find Bushnell Riflescopes and Nikon Riflescopes along with a large selection of Binoculars at http://scopesbinoculars.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brady_Ritsema
Tips For Buying a Rifle Scope

What to Look For When Purchasing a Rifle Scope
By Joshua McNiel

Here, you will be introduced to what to look for when purchasing a rifle scope. As a result of my experience in law enforcement in the past, I can honestly say that this device is essential if you are working the streets as an officer, other areas in the criminal justice field, or working in the capacity of military positions. Many individuals who engage in target practice, or engage in hunting may also find that this is an essential element to the standard rifle that is used.

As you observe your rifle, you will notice that it has many unique characteristics. In addition to this, rifles all shoot in their own way. The basis of the actual firing characteristics is dependent upon many different factors.

First, the grains of the ammunition that you use will play a large role in the way that the weapon fires and the accuracy of that weapon. Secondly, the manufacturer of the ammunition may affect this function. The length and width of the rifle, as well as the weight of the gun will also play a role in determining the overall accuracy of the weapon. Having a rifle scope is an effective strategy behind exact accuracy.

There are a number of benefits of accuracy when shooting a rifle. The following details some of these advantages:

1. By having an accurate shot with your rifle, you can actually engage in shooting that is long range. This means that you can aim at any target, near or far, and have precision accuracy with little to no complications.

2. By using a scope on your rifle, you can enjoy the benefit of recovering more quickly after each shot.

3. By using a rifle scope, you can get a detailed estimation of the space between your weapon and your target.

4. To ensure that you hit the designated target, the scope that can be attached to your weapon can assist you in the area of properly identifying the target that your rifle is bearing down on. This is especially helpful in careers, such as law enforcement and those positions in the military.

When purchasing a rifle scope, it is important that you consider the following:

1. The first thing that you should consider when it comes to purchasing this component for your rifle is the amount of money that you have that can be budgeted to the purchase. There are many scopes out there that can cost as much as over $1000! You want to be certain that you know exactly how much you have to spend, and the most that you can spend on this product.

2. The second thing that you will want to think about is the overall size of the lens that you prefer for your rifle scope. If you select a large lens, you will be able to have a higher level of power than if you select a small lens. In addition to this, larger lens on rifle scoops permit for a larger viewing area.

3. The next thing that you should consider is the overall power setting that comes in included with the scope that you are considering. If you need to see your target in a distinct manner, then it is important to have a large power setting. This way, you can properly identify your target – with no questions whatsoever.

There are many benefits to having a scope on your rifle. Here, you have been introduced to many different advantages associated with rifle scopes, as well as some main points to consider when it comes to actually purchasing your scope. If you are thinking about a scope for your weapon, let this article serve as a guide to assist you in your purchasing decision.

Visit our website to shop for rifle scopes, and tactical rifle scopes.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joshua_McNiel
What to Look For When Purchasing a Rifle Scope

The Bit of Archery History
By Linda Thompson

The history of archery is an interesting one, by following the evolution of archery we also follow the history of mankind which is so closely linked.

Throughout the world we have found evidence of ancient archery, even in places where in the past it was thought that the bow and arrow was not used, such as Australia.

It is thought that archery most likely dates back to around 20,000 BC which is in the Stone Age, but the ancient Egyptians are credited as being the oldest known people to have used the bow and arrow. Archery was adopted by the ancient Egyptians at least 5000 years ago for the purpose of both hunting and warfare.

In 1200 BC the Hittites, an ancient people who lived in what is what is now known as Turkey and northern Syria, used the bow and arrow from fast, light chariots that enabled them to become dreaded opponents in Middle Eastern battles.

Their neighbours known as the Assyrians, who originated in Iraq, Iran, Turkey and Syria also used archery extensively. They reshaped the bow to a recurve shape that was shorter and much more powerful enabling them to be handled at lot easier by an archer on horseback. They also used several different types of material to build bows including horn, tendon and wood.

In China archery can be traced back to the Shang dynasty which was between 1766 and 1027 BC when war chariots carried a three man team consisting of a driver, lancer and archer.

It was during the ensuing Zhou dynasty between 1027-256 BC that the Chinese nobles at court liked to attend archery sporting tournaments that were accompanied by music and much fanfare.

The Chinese introduced civil archery to Japan around the six century and it had an overriding influence on later techniques and etiquette. One of Japan’s martial arts now known as kyudo (way of the bow) continues to be taught in Japan in the traditional manner. A bow over 2 metres long and made of bamboo, wood and laminated strips is used for shooting a target set in a roofed over bank of sand.

During the Geco-Roman period, the bow was utilized more for personal exploits or hunting than it was for warfare, Archery is frequently depicted on pottery dating to that time.

The Romans are not believed to have been very good archers, more than likely because up until the 5th century the bows they used were shot by drawing the string back to the chest rather than the face which gives the arrow far more accuracy.

Enemies such as the Parthians had far better skills; they were accomplished horsemen who were able to shoot backwards by swivelling around in the saddle often at full speed.

The superiority of the archery equipment and techniques used by the people of the Middle East continued for centuries. Attila the Hun and his Mongols, using Bows similar to those of the Parthians and Assyrians, conquered much of Asia and Europe and the Crusaders were thrown back by Turkish archers.

The bow was a means of survival during the days of English and later American colonization and still is in some countries on the African continent

The popularity of archery has also been reflected in many songs and folklore, probably the most famous being Robin Hood, but archery is also often referenced in Greek mythology.

The first known organized archery competition included 3000 participants and was held at Finsbury, England in 1583.

By the time of the European 30 Years War between 1618 and 1648 because of the introduction of the gun, it had become clear that the bow and arrow as a weapon belonged in the past.

Since that time, archery is has become extremely popular as a recreational sport.

Linda Thompson is webmaster of http:Discount Archery Shop where you can get all your discount archery needs from bows,arrows and accessories to targets. We have a full range of bows and arrows. Check our prices!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Linda_Thompson
http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Bit-of-Archery-History&id=1152483

The pair of boots I have now are uncomfortable, and without sufficient insulation to deal with cold weather. So I think I’ll get some new boots this year. But I might actually have to get two pairs. You see, it’s going to be all warm, sometimes wet, and usually snakey. Then the winter is going to come on and the ground is going to freeze through the sole of my boots while I stand in one place for three hours.

Should I try to find one middle-ground boot that is warm enough for the cold, but not too warm for the warm? Should I get a pair of light snake boots and then some waterproofed, gore-tex, thinsulate, space station boots for the winter? I don’t know. I have some experience with combat boots, but not so much with hunting boots.

Buy for your climate, you say. Well, yes, that’s why I’m considering two pairs. But I’m going to be honest with you, I’m cheap. I need some new archery gear this year, too. If I get two pairs of boots, then my wife is just going to scowl at me when I go to buy the bow or crossbow (I haven’t decided yet). What to do…what to do?

Right now I’m looking at some snake boots, and also some boots with heavy insulation, waterproofed, and all that jazz. Do any of you who are more experienced with hunting boots have any advice for me? Maybe I should just get some desert tan combat boots for the warmer weather, but that won’t help me with the snakes. I guess I just don’t need to step on the snakes, but I’m trying to be cautious here.

By Caleb Rogers

When disaster strikes, where will you be and how will you get to your family? Will you have supplies with you if you’re out and around town? The purpose of this article is to discuss what is known as the “get home bag,” and differentiate it from a bug out bag.

A get home bag, though it goes by many names, is a basic emergency kit one usually keeps in their car. The purpose of this kit is to keep you, and whoever is typically with you, safe and fed until you can get to a more secure location or more long-term gear. A bug out bag, on the other hand, should be designed to hold enough gear to completely sustain you – and any family with you – for 72 hours or more. Depending on the size of your family, you might need a few bug out bags.

While bug out bags should typically be large enough to carry a lot of gear, a get home bag only needs to carry enough to get you home or to a similarly safe location. The bag you use for a get home bag should have two basic characteristics. First, it should be small enough that you can carry it around comfortably. A common backpack or shoulder bag designed for school books should be sufficient. What you don’t want to do is use a large military-style rucksack. They are bulky and won’t help you out if you need to get out in a hurry.

The other characteristic is inconspicuousness. Drawing attention to yourself in a disaster isn’t a good thing. If the situation is bad enough, people will beat you and possibly kill you for your food and water. If you are trying to get to a secure location, your journey should be as smooth as possible. Keep a low profile by using a small, common backpack or shoulder bag. You’ll look like everyone else, so chances are you won’t be singled out by unsavory characters as a target.

I like to think of a get home bag as a mini bug out bag. Like a bug out bag, the get home bag should be filled with gear that you personally will need. Customize it to suit your individual needs. Here are some ideas to get you started:

• Food: I like to use MREs for this. MREs are military rations designed to keep you going and do so from a small package. You can fit two or three in a backpack and still have room for plenty of other gear.
• Water: This one is tricky because water is heavy. Two or three water bottles will probably be what you need, but that will add a lot of weight. You will just have to judge your own personal circumstances and needs to determine the right amount of water to carry. It might be a good idea to carry a little water, and then some type of water purification system.
• Foul Weather Gear: Depending on your area, you might need something to protect you from rain, snow, or hard desert heat. Ponchos, anoraks, wool sweaters, gloves, headwear, and such will fit the bill, but you have to pack according to your needs.
• Knife: Carry a pocket knife or multi-tool in your pack. It’s the most versatile tool around and it’s a staple of any survival pack.
• Rope: Carry a length of rope or paracord in your pack. You can use it string together a quick shelter made of branches or a tarp, lash on a splint, or make a tourniquet.
• Flashlight: It gets dark every day, so be sure to have a way to see in the dark, along with batteries to keep that flashlight going.

When packing your get home bag, there are two things you need to keep in mind: Your individual gear needs and your local laws. Aside from dying, the last thing you want to do is get arrested in a disaster. Whatever type of personal security equipment you put in your bag (including your pocket knife), you need to make sure you follow local and state ordinances. Even though you may be in the midst of a disaster, police officers will still be around and they still have a job to do. Take care of yourself, but don’t run afoul of the law.

Keeping a get home bag in your car is a simple way to keep gear close to you when you might need it. Getting home in an emergency is important, and it’s a lot easier to do if you already have equipment on-hand to aid and support you.

Over the next few years, I’ll be building a house. It won’t take me years to build (I hope), but I won’t have the necessary funds to start the build for at least another year.

I plan on building a house that is as self-sustaining as possible. Water from a well and cistern type of system, and electricity provided by some type of natural resource. That one is going to be tricky, but after spending thousands of dollars on electricity over the years, I’ve had enough. That’s an expense I would rather do without, especially since there are viable alternatives should one be so inclined. It’ll be tough, but I can do it.

I plan for the house to be situated on some land that I will find and purchase. That land will also serve a sustaining purpose. I plan for it to provide meat and veggies for my family. It’s homesteading, I guess…but it’s not going to be very far from civilization. For the most part, I like civilization. And I like technology (thus the need for electricity).

I’ll post updates here as they come in. Stay tuned, because there may be very valuable survival information along the way.

I love my .30-30. I got it for my birthday, early for use with the modern gun deer season. It’s a Marlin 336W, unscoped and slinged. The rifle is light, comfortable, and very easy to handle in the woods. This might be one of the best basic utility rifles around, and would be perfect for bugging out, bugging in, and hunting.

I’ll post some pics of it this week, because everybody loves some good gun porn. If I forget, then I’ll post them next week. Just keep checking back everyday until you see the pics. And I’ll write a review soon, too. Not too soon, though, because I need to use it more to get a real grip on it, its use and its function.

I’ve been adding more and more products to my bug out gear supply shop. And I’m going to add more and more. So go check it out and buy some gear. If you don’t see anything you want or need right now, sign up as a customer so you will receive the BDR Gear newsletter, which will be filled with product and site updates.

It’s important to stay warm when out and about during the winter, and with winter coming right around the corner, I thought I would tell you guys about a new category at my gear shop. The new category is Cold Weather Gear, and it contains only two items right now. But those two items are important to keeping you warm. And who knows? By the time you read this, I might have more products in that category.

Check out my cold weather gear and buy some to stay warm.

I hold the personal belief that the knife is the single most useful thing ever invented by man. I also am of the mind that one should have a particular knife for a particular job. Now, sure, there are some great “utility” knives out there, suitable for a wide variety of purposes. That’s how I look at my CRKT pocket folder. It’s tough and it’s handy.

But it’s not really going to cut it (pun shamelessly intended) when I gut a deer. So I bought a new knife today. I bought a Gerber fixed blade hunting knife with gut hook. It’s nothing fancy, and wasn’t expensive. But it’s something I needed, and I’ve already taken it out in the field. Of course, it didn’t get any use, but it will.

I’ll give a full review with pictures after I have the chance to use it. Well, I might just snap some photos of it tomorrow and post them so you can see what it looks like. Preview: Full tang construction with a grip-friendly hard-rubber…grip. The blade is 4 inches long and coated with titanium. It’s sharp enough, it seems, and the gut hook is a nice feature that doesn’t stick out too much. The knife also came with a basic nylon sheath. It’s a nice knife, especially considering how much I paid for it ($22 at Wal-Mart). I’ll see how it holds up to some real use and abuse — I demand serious performace from my gear, which my wife says is just being too hard on it all.

There I was, getting ready to practice with my bow when the unthinkable happened. I pulled back, released my arrow, and heard a loud and very strange twang. I looked at my used Browning Ballistic Mirage compound bow and noticed one of the cables dangling. This may be a repairable issue, but I just don’t trust it any more.

I guess I’m going to just have to buy something different. The trick will be to get it either A) without my wife knowing until it’s all said and done, or B) something my wife agrees to. My wife worries about money, and so do I. But this is just about a necessity. I’ll figure out a way to make it work, but if I could avoid a woman’s scorn, I will.

I might try to get something used, just to get through this season, but I’ll just have to see what’s out there. I’m going to try to make some extra money, but I need to get whatever I’m getting really soon. Archery of any kind takes practice! And if I get a longbow or recurve, I’ll need a lot of practice.

While camping this weekend, I learned a valuable lesson. It’s good to have a padded sleeping mat when camping. I learned this the hard way, quite literally, by sleeping on the hard, rocky ground. Not only will one of these pads make sleeping all nice and comfy, but it can be a vital part of your bug out gear, too.

When you are bugging out, there’s an emergency going on somewhere in your region. During times like this, rest is critical. With yourself better rested, you’ll have more energy and be able to make more sound decisions. Both of which are vital to survival during a disaster. Not only are they good for you, but if you have to care for an injured person, putting them on your padded mat can help facilitate a quicker recovery. No, it won’t actually help heal a broken leg or take a fever down to safe levels. What it will do is make your charge more comfortable. And comfort aids in healing.

The pads are light, and they don’t take up much space on a pack. If you don’t have one, I suggest you get one. I’m going to.

A little trick I learned from my Marine OSO Captain was to pack plenty of zipper-locked sandwich and freezer bags with your gear. Books, maps, and electronics don’t like water very much. No matter how water-resistant your pack is, the rain will penetrate eventually. Not to mention streams and lakes you might fall into while hiking.

Keep zipper bags and baggies in your gear and put your water-sensitive items in them. You will be thankful that you did. This also protect against sweat. If you are keeping a little navigation notebook, journal, or paper map in your pocket while hiking, there’s a pretty good chance that it will get soaked with your sweat. Keep in the the plastic bag and it will be fine.

Don’t forget about any ammo you’re carrying, either. Put that in a bag so it stays as dry as possible.

While browsing various AR parts dealers online, I see that I have a lot to choose from. Not only are there several configuration variations for the AR platform (A2, M4, A3, etc.), but there are a wide variety of calibers available.

The first thing I have to do is decide on what kind of rifle I want to build. Do I want a general defensive rifle, that will take the very easy to find 5.56mm/.223 cartridge, or do I want a heavier-hitting .308? Likewise, I could opt for a 9mm carbine or the slow but heavy .450 Hornady.

Money doesn’t grow on trees in my yard, so it would probably make sense to get something that could be considered all-purpose. The .223 AR is a leading candidate for that. The problem with that round is that I hunt deer. While a .223 can kill a 150 – 200 pound animal, there’s little room for error. A more powerful cartridge would be better.

If I go up to a .308 or larger, the ammo starts to get more expensive. So practice with the rifle would be pricey. However, the .308 is a great all-around cartridge, suitable for a wide array of uses.

If I move up to the 6.8 SPC, I’ll get plenty of deer-hunting power, and have a rifle chambered in a round that is picking up popularity fast. So what do I do? 5.56mm, 6.8 SPC, .308, or one of the other chamberings? I could always buy a complete rifle and then buy different uppers and magazines, each one suitable to a particular purpose. But I don’t know if that’s what I really want to do.

The question is whether I want a rifle I can use for anything, or if I want to purchase rifles that were designed for a particular task. Should I build a 5.56/.223 AR for a defensive weapon and buy a rifle designed for hunting, or should I get one weapon for all seasons?

I need to decide that before I decide exactly what I want to build. I do plan on buying hunting-specific rifles, but having something all-purpose really appeals to me.

When you need to get out of town to avoid getting caught up in some disaster, you’ll need supplies. Bug Out Bags are not really meant to be a replacement to your life, but rather to get you through the first tough couple of days of a disaster. Once the initial shock is done, emergency services and supplies may start to trickle in.

Whether you are bugging in (staying put and waiting out the storm) or you you are bugging out, you’ll need some basic supplies. I found a good online resource for getting some bug out kits ready made. These 72-Hour kits are meant to get you through the initial stage of the disaster. You may have to travel to another state, or walk 100 miles. Or maybe you’re just snowed in for a couple of days. Take a look at this site:

Not only do they have ready-made 72-Hour kits to get you through a hurricane, earthquake, or some other disaster (massive riots, for example), but they also have supplies you can use to create your own. The kits range in price from $20 to $180, and they seem to cover the basic areas of food, water, and emergency gear.

Take a look at them and see what they have to offer. Having an emergency kit is like wearing your seatbelt. Sure, you don’t need it every day, but if you get in a car accident, you’ll be glad you were wearing it. Likewise, if there’s a disaster in your area, you’ll be glad you have some emergency supplies in a grab-and-go bag. Click on the banner, see what they have to offer, and buy your emergency supplies today.

Guns are expensive. That’s the plain and simple truth. A quality firearm will cost you anywhere from $500 to $3000. Not exactly pocket change, I know. A lot of people I know don’t own any guns at all because they feel that they just don’t have the money to afford one.

Whether you are looking for a hunting tool, a defensive weapon, or just something that will give you hours of fun at the range, you don’t have to save paycheck after paycheck to get it. What you can do is buy the Maverick Model 88 Field. I bought one almost two years ago, and it’s a great little shotgun. Maverick is an offshoot of Mossberg, and the 88 is basically a bare bones version of the Mossberg 500. Barrels and chokes are interchangeable. Brand new, after taxes, I spent less that $160 on mine.

I know what you’re thinking… “What a cheap gun!” Well, cheap as far as money is concerned. Sure, there aren’t any bells or whistles on this shotgun, but thing works. It’s simple, and it works. I took a 200 lbs. buck with it last season, so I know it’s effective. This hunting season, I’ll be using it on squirrel, dove, deer, and duck. Based on its past performance, I am confident that it will get the job done.

The Maverick 88 is a 12 gauge shotgun, with a smooth-bore barrel that comes with a modified choke Accu-Choke installed. It is chambered to take 2 ¾” or 3” shells. The stock is black synthetic, which feels nice and keeps the gun light. I’ve taken a few pictures so you can see what it looks like. Now, I don’t have a proper photography studio setup, so the pics are kind of amateurish. I’ll get better with time. Anyway…

Here is the shotgun (most of it, anyway).

The barrel has standard ribbing to which you can attach clip-on sighting systems.

The integral recoil pad makes this a breeze to shoot. That pad will come in handy on a long day of shooting squirrels or doves.

If you don’t have much money to spend on a firearm, take a serious look at a Maverick Model 88 Field. It’s inexpensive, durable, and gets the job done. Head to your local gun shop and take a look at one.

I read an article today that made a pretty decent case for the .270 as an ideal deer hunting cartridge. The article was in the current issue of Peterson’s Hunting (August 2007). Technically, the piece was written from the angle of getting rid of (well, not hunting with) some too-weak, too-strong, or generally ill-suited-for-deer cartridges.

Once the “herd was culled,” as the writer put it, there were a few good old chamberings left. The writer touted the .270 as the best all-around deer cartridge. Apparently, it’s versatile enough to be effective against a wide variety of deer, and in a wide variety of locales.

I still haven’t bought my rifle for this next deer season, and this article was persuasive enough that my mind may be swaying. We’ll see how it turns out. And, of course, you’ll get some pictures when I get my rifle.

It is with a sad heart that I must announce the closure of my online shop, BDR Gear. It was a good run, but it’s time to close down. Fear not!

I will have some gear shop recommendations for you. So, if you don’t already have a favorite shop you use for your bug out and tactical gear, just keep tabs on this site. Subscribe to the feed, too.

The first shop I’m throwing your way is Nitro-Pak. It’s an online shop that seems similar to mine, but with a lot more stuff. I haven’t purchased anything from them, so I’m not exactly vouching for them. I’m saying check them out. I’m going to order a few things from them, and I’ll let you know how it goes.

I’m particularly interested in their MREs, since they are a different brand than what I sell (for just a bit longer). Speaking of which, if you want to get anything from my shop, order it now. I’m closing the doors to it on June 30, 2007. So check out Nitro-Pak, and make one last purchase from BDR Gear.

More gear sources will be coming soon!

As summer starts to hit hard, making me sweat in the strangest places, I begin to think about this approaching hunting season. The way summers have gone for my entire life, fall will be here before I know it. Therefore, I need to start preparing now, lest I only bag one deer like last year.

This time, I want my son and I to take our limit of deer. Maybe duck, too. Today I came up with a short list of gear that I need to get before the fall.

• New archery target — got to get those arrows hitting the mark
• Arrows
• Slings for my and my son’s shotguns
• A Rifle suitable for taking deer at 100 – 200 yards
• Guthook knife for ease of field dressing
• Large cooler to age and drain of blood the quartered deer
• A Food Saver kit (those vacuum pack bags)
• Tanning supplies (not for me, for the buck skin)
• Duck call DVD so I can learn how to do it properly
• Waders, since I don’t have a boat and need some way of retrieving the ducks

I’m sure that I’ll need more than that, but it’s a decent list.

I’ve got to get a Sig Sauer. I’m thinking the P220. Any thoughts?

The Hurricane season is now here. If you are in a danger zone, you need to prepare yourself. If you haven’t already done so, buy some MREs, bottled water, emergency blankets, a good pocket knife, a good flashlight, and a good pair of boots. Put all that gear (including whatever else you might need) in a rugged bug out bag and pay attention to the weather.

Just be prepared. If you are faced with disaster, it will go much smoother if you have some gear ready to go. Your equipment doesn’t have to be expensive, it just has to work when you need it.

To many, emergency preparation means getting ready to bug out. These individuals have their bug out bags and their bug out plans. When disaster strikes, they are ready to go and they execute their plan. But, I wonder, is this really the best course of action?

Another option that some merely glaze over is the concept of bugging in. Bugging in is similar to bugging out, but you just stay at home. Sometimes, you bug out to a cabin, then bug in for a long, rough time. This is something that I have found is overlooked far too often.

What do I mean by bugging in? Well, simply, have enough provisions at your place to last a week to a month. These times are used as examples, and may or may not fit your particular emergency situation. Wherever you are going to ride out the storm, be ready to function without running water, electricity, road access, and friendly neighbors. If you have a family, you must prepare accordingly.

This is really something that should be given a lot of attention, because regular seasonal disasters can leave you stranded in your home for a few days. And if you have paid attention to the news over the last few years, you would have noticed that some of the largest cities can be left without power for long periods of time. Not only must you prepare for a break down of society, but also for natural and man-made disasters.

What do you do in a situation like that? Staying at home may be the safest, most plausible course of action. But that won’t do you any good if you don’t have supplies. Canned green beans only last so long — your family may need more substatial food. Along the same lines, if you are stuck in a blizzard, you might get cold. Your electricity might falter, and, though I have no particular experience with this, I’m sure natural gas used for heating can be interrupted as well. Sweaters, blankets, and a warm fire can help out with that, but only if you have enough.

Chances are that you will experience a few emergencies in your life — some small and others big. No matter what happens, it’s best to be prepared, and ready to get out of town, or to just sit tight until the storm clears.

If you don’t have one already, you should probably add an M-65 Field Jacket to your wardrobe. It’s tough, versatile, and does an excellent job of protecting you from all but the harshest cold weather.

Being a military jacket, it was designed to protect soldiers from the elements while allowing them to move freely in combat. So here is a jacket that does it’s job as a jacket, but doesn’t confine you or restrict movement — something that is very important if you are out in the wilderness trying to build a shelter in a storm.

If you don’t already have a great jacket for your Bug Out Bag, you should really consider one of these. Not only do they handle rain and wind well, they have a removable quilted liner. This extends its usability to most of the year. If you just need something to keep the wind or a light rain off of you, but it’s not cold, take out the liner and put it in your pack. If it’s cold, button in the liner and you’re good to go. Throw on a wool sweater underneath that and you can be comfy in a some really cold places.

Strength, usability, and pure function are offered by the M-65 Field Jacket. Get one and add it to your emergency supplies.

There is no tool more essential to your survival than a knife. In my opinion, it is the greatest and most useful invention of man, surpassing even the wheel. After all, man could not make the wheel without something to cut the stone. Nor could he skin his game so that his family would have shelter and clothing. The uses of knives throughout history are numerous. I would even go so far as to say that pretty much all households across the globe have a knife.

In a survival or outdoor situation, a knife’s usefulness is vast. Need a small section of rope to tie something down? Cut your rope into manageable lengths. What if you are caught in a storm and need to fashion some shelter? A knife can cut small branches and cord so you can make a crude shelter. If you need food, a knife can be lashed to a pole, creating a spear, which is an historically-proven hunting weapon.

CRKT makes some great pocket knives. I recommend that you carry one around all day long (be sure to check local and state laws, of course, as I will not be responsible for you breaking them). Think of the knife as just part of what you put in your pockets: Keys, cell phone, etc.

The particular knife pictured above is one tough little pocket knife. CRKT has come up with a safety for their liner lock knives, which basically turns them into fixed blades. You don’t have to worry about accidentally slipping and unlocking the blade, closing it on your fingers. To close the knife, you must make two deliberate — and quite awkward at first — movements.

The blade is sharp, the steel is tough, and the knife is light. After carrying one of these CRKT blades around for over about a year, I would have to see that the only reason not to have one would be if you just don’t like the way it looks.

Blades are a handy thing to have around, and you never know when you might need one.

A decent firearm should be a staple in most people’s disaster kits. Why a firearm? Well, simply, you never know when you’re going to need one. In a disaster, everything is chaotic, and you might need some way to defend yourself, your family, your food source, or you home. Or, you can use a firearm to hunt and feed your family.

In a society-crushing disaster, or even a prolonged ecological disaster, having a tool for food and protection is a must. Even if you “don’t like guns,” you need to have one and know how to operate it. It’s better to have one and never need it, than to need it and be empty handed.

Here’s a great resource for browsing and purchasing firearms for what is typically much less than retail pricing: Gun Broker.

Click this link, sign up, and start shopping around for a decent rifle, pistol, or shotgun. Some of the descriptions are the bare minimum, but most contain detail pictures and lots of information on that particular firearm.

Be safe, secure, and confident. Click the link and check them out.

The B.O.B., or Bug Out Bag, is probably the most important piece of equipment you need in case of an emergency. Though it is made up of several parts, it’s one grab and go item that you will be glad you have should disaster strike.

Even though this piece of equipment has “Bug Out” in the name, you don’t necessarily need to be wilderness bound to use one. One can bug in just as easily as bug out. For example, say that you are in Northern Montana, in a rented ski cabin, and a gigantic blizzard pours snow on you, trapping you in for days. With a well-stocked bug out bag, you can just bug in and wait for the roads to clear up.

When putting together a bug out bag, the first thing you need is a bag. Now, this is supposed to be something that you can grab and head out with, so a backpack would be ideal. When selecting a pack, make sure it’s a good one, because if you’re having to muscle your way through angry crowds or run through some thick woods, you don’t want your pack to fall apart.

If you need a regular-sized backpack, why not get a military-style 3-Day assault pack? If you need a large pack, capable of sustaining two people, or if you will need to travel for a while to get to a safe location, try a larger back, like the CFP-90. Those packs are large, tough, and pretty comfortable, too.

In another post, I talked about the value of having food in an emergency. When building a bug out bag, keep in mind that it may very well sit in your closet for years without seeing the light of day. So, you should pack military rations in it, since they are designed to last for years without going bad. I recommend SurePak MREs, which are nearly identical to the government issue military rations. These complete meals are packed in a bag that fits nicely into BDU cargo pockets. So, putting a few of these in your bug out bag won’t take up much room, and will solve the food problem. Keep in mind that they are meals only, and don’t come with water. So you’ll have to pack some of that, too.

These suggestions of mine are just the very basic necessities. There are many other things that you may need to add, and still other things that I think are a must. A good knife, for example, is a must for any BOB. You never know when you’re going to have to cut some rope or divide up some badnages. Flashlights and extra batteries, along with some type of warmth and shelter system are also musts for a bug out bag. I have a polypro tarp and some paracord in my bag, so that I can construct a basic tent or put a covering on a lean-to shelter.

Whatever you decide to put in your bug out bag is up to you. Just make sure that you have one. The last time I grabbed mine was when a tornado hit a block behind my house. That was quite and exciting night! I grabbed my bug out bag, and got my family into some protective shelter and waited out the storm. If we had been dislodged by furious winds, we would have had flashlights, water, protien bars, and emergency mylar blankets.

Take this basic information and expand upon it so that it meets your needs.

Now go make a BOB.

With hurricane season right around the corner — June 1, I believe — everyone in the danger zone needs to make sure that they are prepared for disaster. Hurricane Katrina taught me that we always need to be prepared for what we don’t see coming.

Sure, that region is used to hurricanes, but many were not prepared for what happened when the waters rushed into New Orleans. My advice is to be ready for some displacement. What better way to get ready than to make sure you have some basic supplies on hand to get you through the tough times.

I think the most important thing you can have in an emergency pack is food. I know that’s quite a debateable point, but food gives comfort and strength, and strength can aid you greatly when times are tough.

The best food you can have, in my opinion, for hurricane disaster preparation is the MRE. You can find some here. These MREs are civilian versions of the government contracted military rations.

MRE stands for Meal Ready to Eat, and that’s what it is. Inside the plastic pouch is a complete meal: Main entree, side dish, desert, some type of beverage powder (sports drink, cocoa, etc.), and even some condiments and a spoon. It’s a whole meal inside a bag, free of preservatives and carrying enough nutrients to get you through the day.

The packs are small enough so that you can fit several in a backpack. If you have a family, for example, you can give three meals to each person, and they won’t feel weighed down by it.

The only thing these MREs don’t have is water. So if you don’t want to dehydrate, you’ll need to pack some of that, too.

Next time, I’ll discuss the concept of the Bug Out Bag, or B.O.B., and give some advice on the contents. Emergency preparation might be a chore, but if you get caught in a hurricane, having a full meal can do wonders for your strength and your morale.

I set out to find a hunting rifle, with the intent that it be somewhat utilitarian. I wasn’t just after a hunting rifle…I wanted a firearm that could serve multiple purposes if needed. Sure, if it’s decent and everything, it probably won’t be really good at one particular thing, like hunting, but in my search I was prepared to make that sacrifice.

While searching, I saw many great rifles, read some good reviews of weapons and one interesting critical analysis of the .30-06 cartridge. My decision is for the Mosin Nagant. That might seem like an odd choice for a hunting rifle. At close range, there might not be much venison left for me to eat, since I’ve heard that those rifles pack quite a punch.

My reasoning is based in pure practicality. Right now, I don’t make a lot of money, so I need to purchase a rifle that won’t put undue financial strain on the family. I can also get these rifles at quite a discounted rate once I get my C&R firearms license. That’s right, I’ve decided to go ahead and start my collection of old arms.

It’s been something which has held my interest since I was a child. Now, as deer season approaches, I see the opportunity to get some great rifles for the collection and also have some decent hunting rifles. Sure, they may not be ideally suited for deer slaying, but most of these rifles I will buy will have already proven themselves. Some may have been used in actual battles. So I’ll have a little piece of history.

I’m not going to get my license right away, because I will be moving soon. It would be kind of pointless to get something that is directly related to my physical address, and then move a couple of months later. So, I’ll wait until my wife and I pick out a house to buy, and then I’ll get the license and start buying Mosins. Now…do I want the carbine, or the sniper model?

While researching various long guns for this rifle search, I have learned that this isn’t going to be an easy decision. Simply put, I want them all. There are so many fine rifles out there, it’s going to be hard to choose.

I have looked at all sorts of rifles — semi-auto, bolt-action, lever guns, old war horses, and modern combat weapons. There’s clearly a lot to choose from, so how do I narrow it down? I could shop by pure economy, purchasing the cheapest rifle I can find that has sufficient power. On the other end of that spectrum, I could go for a really nice, high-end rifle in use by troops and police officers worldwide. Taking a different approach, I could shop based on task-specific criteria, such as buying a rifle that has been fully designed as a deer hunting rifle. You see where I’m going with this? How do I decide?

If I base my decision on pure utility, options both expensive and inexpensive come to mind. For example, the Springfield M1A Scout rifle would be an excellent all-around weapon with a history of reliability. Unfortunately, those are terribly expensive. An inexpensive option would be to purchase a mauser, mosin, or sks. Those rifles have proved themselves throughout history, but they don’t cost a lot.

Which brings me to a recent discovery. Well, I didn’t really discover it recently, but I did learn details about it recently. I could always get a Curio and Relics federal firearms license and just buy some of these historically proven and still serviceable rifles online and have the shipped to my door. These licenses are cheaper than I thought, and since I’m a good citizen, I’ll qualify for one. If I do go this route, not only will I be able to get some great deals on some field rifles, I’ll be able to have a collection of these historical weapons–something that has been an interest of mine since childhood.

Regardless of what I choose, I still want them all. Right now, based on my family’s financial stature, I think that I’ll need to go with a more economical firearm. But that still leaves the question of utility vs. specific purpose. Do I want to get an older rifle that is really cheap (inexpensive, not shoddy craftsmanship), or save a bit more and get a task-specific rifle? I don’t know, but I imagine that my continued shopping and research will lead me to the answer.

Choosing a rifle that would be suitable as a basic all-around utility weapon is my goal. I mean that I am looking for a rifle that is both field-ready for hunting large game and also battle-ready for defending my family. I’ve come up with some basic criteria that I will use when shopping for a rifle. I don’t just want some bullet-slinger, but rather something with a bit of elegance.

Here are some of my basic criteria:

• Reliability
• Availability of ammunition
• Ease of carry and handling
• Accuracy
• Stopping power
• Availability of spare or expansion parts

I am looking for a round with enough stopping power to take down a whitetail deer without too much of a risk of merely wounding it. That pretty much rules out the .223. I know that many deer have been killed wih a .223, but in the thick hardwoods that I hunt, I’m afraid that it’s just not enough bullet to be a reliable slayer of deer. Prove me wrong if you can, because I would love to buy an AR-15.

I would like to get a rifle that is somewhat common, that way I can get spare parts and accessories at most gun shops, instead of having to search around for them. However, this isn’t really such a big deal since one can find just about anything online. Still, it’s a consideration of mine.

Since I am looking for more of a utility rifle, meaning that it will plausibly serve more than one purpose, I may not go with the standard bolt-action hunting rifle. In a defensive situation, when my pistol is not near or ready, a bolt action rifle would be cumbersome. Even so, this is just a minor consideration, since my shotgun would also make a fine defensive weapon.

Cost is something else that I must unfortunately consider. This is really too bad since there are some amazing and well-reputed rifles that cost over twelve hundred dollars. I would not be able to disclose such a figure to my wife, no matter how well off we are at the time of purchase.

Check back for part 2 of this series, where I will have a few rifle considerations, and why I am looking at them.