Rabbits are plentiful in many regions, so learning how to clean and prepare them could help you out in a survival situation. The article below comes complete with images, instructions, and a how-to video. In my opinion, the video is more informative than the article, but you can judge for yourself.

How to Eat Wild Rabbit

I went duck hunting this morning — opening day here in Arkansas. Apparently, not enough ducks have made it down from the North yet…because I only saw one flock anywhere near shooting range. Well, they were out of shooting range by just a bit, and they flat out refused to be called in.

I might have been the only one out there who was “unlucky.” Apparenlty, if I had a boat, I would have been shooting a lot. I heard a bunch of shots in the distance, over toward the main lake in the Wildlife Management Area I was on — Henry Gray Hurricane Lake outside of Bald Knob, AR. Someone was getting some ducks. There just weren’t any in my area.

When I got back, I checked the Mallard Satellite Tracking Program, and it looks like there are still a lot of ducks in the North. Hopefully they’ll hurry down.

On a related note, I got some waders so that I don’t get hypothermia and die. No boat, but I can walk in the water. I didn’t get the neoprene-style waders, mainly because I needed two pairs (one for me and one for my oldest kid), and my wife would have chewed me out for spending $200 on waders. So I spent $80 and got two pairs of Hodgman’s heavy-duty rubber chest waders. These are the kind that have the steel-shank boots on them. Picked up mine at Wal-Mart. Here’s what they look like: Rubber Chest Waders.

If you get these, or something like them, make sure that you wear enough warm stuff. These waders are not insulated at all. I had on thermal underwear, bdu pants, a pair of running socks, and then my thermal boot socks. My legs were OK, but my toes got cold. Of course, I was standing in ice water. Maybe tomorrow I’ll try putting one of those pocket warmers in the toe of each boot. I’ll let you know how it goes.

Keep an eye out for those ducks! And I need to get a boat…

I went to the range yesterday and got my rifle basically where it needs to be. I’ve got a 100 yard indoor rifle range here, which is nice. I had bore sighted the rifle using a laser bore sighter, but I still had to work a bit to get the rounds to land where they needed.

After a while I got it working really good. Now let’s see if I can find some deer!

If you install a scope on your Marlin 336 rifle, you will probably need to install the included hammer spur. The Marlin 336 comes with a hammer spur, and it’s really easy to install. If your Marlin rifle didn’t come with one, or if you lost your spur, just contact your local gun shop to order one for you.

Here is what came with my rifle:

See the little red thing on the end of the allen wrench? That’s the screw that will hold your hammer spur in place. It does an OK job, but if you work the hammer a lot, you might need to re-tighten it. To install, you just slide the spur on the hammer as far as it will go. There are two little grooves on the side of hammer, so the spur will stop when it gets there. Do this next:

Just tighten it up nice and snug, and then remove the allen wrench. Simple. Make sure it’s tight, but not so tight that you break the allen wrench. Here’s what you get when you’re done:

Some things to keep in mind: You might not need it, and you might need to tighten it from time to time.

Remember, this spur might come loose. Just keep the allen wrench handy for re-tightening, or contact your gunsmith for some kind of firearm adhesive (locktite or similar…talk to a professional).

When I say that you might not need it, you’ll just have to look at you and your setup to see if you can do without it. I have a 50mm scope, so I have the tall scope mounts for the clearance. I also have average-sized thumbs. So there’s plenty of room to work the hammer without the spur. I’ve tried it several times, and it just works out. If there is any question about your ability to work the hammer, stick with the hammer spur. Don’t risk an accident!

The installation only takes a few second, so go ahead and put it on there. Besides it’s obvious benefit for scopes, the hammer spur will also help out when removing the action for cleaning. But I won’t show you that here. Next time I’ll write a little how-to article for stripping your Marlin 336 for cleaning. Don’t worry, that’s easy, too. Subscribe to the RSS feed or the email newsletter to get notice of it.

Here is a how-to great article about recycling an old circular saw blade into a nice guthook knife. Use it for hunting, toss it your bug out bag… Read the article here:

How to Make a Guthook Knife from an Old Saw Blade

I’ve got my scope mounted on my weaver base, and I’m ready to bore sight. I think I’ll pick up a laser bore sighter and use that to get the scope set up initially. Then I’ll work on zeroing it.

I’m really looking forward to some pin-point accuracy with such a fun and functional rifle. I’ll need to do this all within the next few weeks, as modern gun deer season starts soon. I’m going to scout some in the woods this weekend while squirrel hunting. Hopefully I’ll see some good deer sign. Maybe they haven’t moved very far from where they were last year.

I hope that this season is better than last year. The weather was so screwed up, I don’t think the deer knew what to do with themselves. It would be a shame if I didn’t even get to test this rifle out in the field because everything is screwy again this year. Here’s to hoping for the best…

Here’s a little slide show video I put together of my scope base project:

Rifle: Marlin 336

Hardware: Weaver two-piece scope base for Marlin 336

Tools: 2 flat head screwdrivers – one tiny, one regular

I’ve decided to put a scope on my beloved Marlin 336 .30-30 lever action rifle. It’s such a great rifle, but I want to improve my chances of filling the freezer with venison this year. Here’s how I did it.

First off, Marlin 336 comes drilled and tapped for a scope. But there isn’t a base and there aren’t any rings. So you’ll have to buy them if you want to mount a scope. And, of course, you’ll have to buy a scope, too.

First, locate the screws:

The screws are small, so you’ll need a small flat-head screwdriver. I used the largest one in my little jewelry-type driver set.

Here are the removed screws:

Now we can see the mount points clearly. They go all the way through the receiver. If you are going to use some type of screw adhesive, do it very carefully! You don’t want to get any in the action.

Here is the two-part base I’m going to mount on the rifle. It’s a Weaver base made for the Marlin 336 and similar rifles. The package lists all compatible rifles on the back. Here are the mounts:

I just used a standard small-ish flat-head driver to mount the bases. It was super easy. They line up just right, and I can still use the iron sights if there is no scope mounted. Here are a couple of shots of the completed job:

and

The job took only a couple of minutes total, and that includes stopping to take some photos. Now I just need to decide what scope I want on it. I’m on a budget this year, so it will have to be an inexpensive model. I guess it’s back to Wal-Mart after I get paid again!

Tips For Buying a Rifle Scope
By Brady Ritsema

When you are considering buying a rifle scope, you’ll soon come up against more choices than you know what to do with! If you last bought a scope several years ago, or you have never owned one at all, the variety of scopes can leave you a little bit concerned about which one is the best choice for you. When you are thinking about getting a scope, you’ll find that your choice can be much simpler if you only keep a few things in mind. Remember that the best scope is not necessarily the most expensive one; it will be the one that suits you the best.

The first thing to think about is what conditions you will be hunting in. Some people only hunt in fair to good conditions, while others take a real pride in going out regardless of the weather. Take some time to read the fine print, and figure out what conditions your rifle scope can deal with. For instance, you’ll find that Bushnell rifle scopes are known for their water-repellent lens coating, making them a natural choice in rain, sleet or even snow.

Also, you’ll find that you will want a rifle scope where the size of the forward lens, also known as the objective lens is one that is comfortable for you. The larger this lens is, the brighter the view will be. If you often hunt in low-light conditions, like daybreak or dusk, you’ll find that the more clearly it will show you your target. Make sure that you test out these lenses if at all possible. Keep in mind that there is a drawback in that the larger the forward lens is, the further forward it will need to be mounted on the gun and the less natural your sighting process will be. Make sure that you are comfortable with the amount of adjustment that you need to do.

You’ll also find that some lenses are known for their all-purpose durability. For instance, the Nikon rifle scopes are known for their endurance no matter what the condition, and many have praised it’s crystal clear edge-to-edge view. You’ll find that these lenses have also be coated with several layers of anti-reflective compounds, thus improving your vision will preventing you from spooking your prey with a tell-tale glint.

As always, whenever you are thinking about purchasing something that carries an impressive price tag, remember that you will want to get a warranty with it. No matter how reliable the company, and Bushnell rifescopes and Nikon riflescopes are known for their reliability, it is still possible that there is a problem with the product. If you have a warranty, you can make sure that you recoup your money and get a replacement if there is some sort of factory defect. Similarly, make sure that the rifle scope has a great deal of adjustment available to you; some hunters will refuse to buy rifle scopes that don’t have at least 60 inches of adjustment available.

Take some time to figure out what you really need from your rifle scope, and then look around and make sure that you get it it!

Find Bushnell Riflescopes and Nikon Riflescopes along with a large selection of Binoculars at http://scopesbinoculars.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brady_Ritsema
Tips For Buying a Rifle Scope

What to Look For When Purchasing a Rifle Scope
By Joshua McNiel

Here, you will be introduced to what to look for when purchasing a rifle scope. As a result of my experience in law enforcement in the past, I can honestly say that this device is essential if you are working the streets as an officer, other areas in the criminal justice field, or working in the capacity of military positions. Many individuals who engage in target practice, or engage in hunting may also find that this is an essential element to the standard rifle that is used.

As you observe your rifle, you will notice that it has many unique characteristics. In addition to this, rifles all shoot in their own way. The basis of the actual firing characteristics is dependent upon many different factors.

First, the grains of the ammunition that you use will play a large role in the way that the weapon fires and the accuracy of that weapon. Secondly, the manufacturer of the ammunition may affect this function. The length and width of the rifle, as well as the weight of the gun will also play a role in determining the overall accuracy of the weapon. Having a rifle scope is an effective strategy behind exact accuracy.

There are a number of benefits of accuracy when shooting a rifle. The following details some of these advantages:

1. By having an accurate shot with your rifle, you can actually engage in shooting that is long range. This means that you can aim at any target, near or far, and have precision accuracy with little to no complications.

2. By using a scope on your rifle, you can enjoy the benefit of recovering more quickly after each shot.

3. By using a rifle scope, you can get a detailed estimation of the space between your weapon and your target.

4. To ensure that you hit the designated target, the scope that can be attached to your weapon can assist you in the area of properly identifying the target that your rifle is bearing down on. This is especially helpful in careers, such as law enforcement and those positions in the military.

When purchasing a rifle scope, it is important that you consider the following:

1. The first thing that you should consider when it comes to purchasing this component for your rifle is the amount of money that you have that can be budgeted to the purchase. There are many scopes out there that can cost as much as over $1000! You want to be certain that you know exactly how much you have to spend, and the most that you can spend on this product.

2. The second thing that you will want to think about is the overall size of the lens that you prefer for your rifle scope. If you select a large lens, you will be able to have a higher level of power than if you select a small lens. In addition to this, larger lens on rifle scoops permit for a larger viewing area.

3. The next thing that you should consider is the overall power setting that comes in included with the scope that you are considering. If you need to see your target in a distinct manner, then it is important to have a large power setting. This way, you can properly identify your target – with no questions whatsoever.

There are many benefits to having a scope on your rifle. Here, you have been introduced to many different advantages associated with rifle scopes, as well as some main points to consider when it comes to actually purchasing your scope. If you are thinking about a scope for your weapon, let this article serve as a guide to assist you in your purchasing decision.

Visit our website to shop for rifle scopes, and tactical rifle scopes.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joshua_McNiel
What to Look For When Purchasing a Rifle Scope

How to Prepare For Outdoor Survival – Tactics For Hiking and Camping
By Mo Plante

The outdoors is a beautiful place in which nature is at its best. While the places you may spend your time in at the wilderness seem very safe, there are certain precautions that every person, even the seasoned hiker or camper needs to take. A first aid kit is absolutely essential on even the shortest outdoor excursions. A simple collection of antiseptic, bandages, and hydrocortisone cream should meet the needs of most minor injuries. For more serious injuries a cellular phone will prove to be very valuable or know the locations of the nearest phones that provide service to ranger stations.

Aside from having your first aid kit and way to communicate, the best way to protect you from perils of the outdoors is to know the area in which you are camping or hiking. You would not want to be dropped off in the middle of a huge city that you were not familiar with and the woods should be treated with same respect. By knowing your area, the climate for that particular time of year is very crucial. Not having the appropriate clothing to withstand the weather could cause great harm to you and your family. Remember that a lot of areas temperature range can vary by as much as 40 to 50 degrees between daylight and nighttime hours. To help combat temperature changes the proper equipment can make life out on the terrain a little easier. There are tents and sleeping bags designed for particular temperature ranges that will help keep your body temperature at a safe level. Hypothermia and heat exhaustion are two serious concerns that happen readily to unprepared campers and hikers.

The next point of interest is food and water. Your body will require water to survive. At least 2 liters of water needs to be available daily to sustain your body need for water. While this can be obtained from streams, wells, and other natural resources, it is always a good idea to add some bottled water to your pack. Dried foods can also be packed which are typically light such as MRE (Meals Ready to Eat), and dried fruits and vegetables. A little research can also provide you with naturally occurring food sources for the area you plan on scouting. Do not eat anything that you have not thoroughly researched, as many fruits and plants can look absolutely delicious but prove to be poisonous. Wild game can also be captured for those with knowledge of trapping or hunting. An important thing to remember when eating wild game is that you risk infection of diseases but will help keep the pack weight down and provide you with the variety of diet that you need for longer excursions.

For those skilled and experienced campers and hikers, creating a fire may not be that difficult. However, depending on climate and amount of materials available to start a fire could prove a hard task for the more inexperienced hikers or campers. To make life out in the wild a little easier, waterproof matches would help start a fire easily. Two blocks of flint could also be used and of course if all else fails two dry sticks can give you that little amber you need to start your cooking fire. Pine straw and other dried vegetation are ideal for getting a fire started, but you will also need to locate larger wood sources to keep your fire going for an extended period of time. When you go out venturing for wood, do not travel alone. When possible, always try to travel with a friend in case danger does arise.

Navigation can make or break an experience in the wild. The surroundings are all typically the same no matter what direction you walk in. Landmarks are few and far in between. A compass is highly suggested along with a small map of the area in which you will be staying. Long sleeves and pants will help keep you from being injured from briars and other hazards as well as limit fresh skin available for insects. If you get completely lost this attire should be able to get through the night in many terrains, and leave items that are not needed as landmarks to help others track you or to let you know if you have been walking in circles. When all else fails, a flare gun should have been a part of your survival kit. This should then be fire when times are getting hard. Once the flare has been fired you need to stay at that location.

Some of the more common insects and animals that could pose a problem in the wild are leeches, mosquitoes, and bears. If for any reason you pick up a few leeches on your skin, it is important not to remove them without use of salt or alcohol. This is due to the jaws being left in the skin which can then become infected. Bug spray and netting should be used to prevent an abundance of mosquito and other insect bites as they are prone to diseases and infections. For addressing bears, all food needs to be kept in sealable containers to prevent the scent traveling and inviting a bear into your campsite. This is only a few of the many dangers that the wild possesses. It is important to research the natural inhabitants of any new area you plan to visit.

Another primary concern is animal bites such as spiders, snakes, and scorpions. Many breeds of these animals come packed with a toxic bite. Whether it be a black widow spider, rattlesnake, or other animal you need to know how to handle yourself. The vital part to helping a fellow camper or hiker that has been bitten is to clean the infected area well, and tie a piece of material or belt above the wound. This will help prevent infection and slow the movement of the poison throughout the body. Emergency officials need to be reached immediately if the bite is determined to come from a poisonous animal. An easy way to tell with snake bites are if a row of teeth appears it is typically a non-venomous snake, while if two distinct puncture marks are shown with or without the row of other teeth, it is a good assumption that the snake was poisonous. The next step is to assure that someone is monitoring the bitten person for changes in status. It often takes some time for symptoms to begin to appear. Treat the symptoms as best as possible with your first aid kits and seek help. The myth of sucking out venom is simply that and not suggested.

Now that we have covered the basics of outdoor survival, it is up to you to educate yourself on the specific surroundings that you will be camping or hiking. Knowledge is what will keep you alive out there, while ignorance does not have a pleasant ending.

Get outdoor survival kits and packs , we have the tools to help you survive in the outdoors

SurvivalPacks.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mo_Plante
How to Prepare For Outdoor Survival Tactics For Hiking and Camping

The Bit of Archery History
By Linda Thompson

The history of archery is an interesting one, by following the evolution of archery we also follow the history of mankind which is so closely linked.

Throughout the world we have found evidence of ancient archery, even in places where in the past it was thought that the bow and arrow was not used, such as Australia.

It is thought that archery most likely dates back to around 20,000 BC which is in the Stone Age, but the ancient Egyptians are credited as being the oldest known people to have used the bow and arrow. Archery was adopted by the ancient Egyptians at least 5000 years ago for the purpose of both hunting and warfare.

In 1200 BC the Hittites, an ancient people who lived in what is what is now known as Turkey and northern Syria, used the bow and arrow from fast, light chariots that enabled them to become dreaded opponents in Middle Eastern battles.

Their neighbours known as the Assyrians, who originated in Iraq, Iran, Turkey and Syria also used archery extensively. They reshaped the bow to a recurve shape that was shorter and much more powerful enabling them to be handled at lot easier by an archer on horseback. They also used several different types of material to build bows including horn, tendon and wood.

In China archery can be traced back to the Shang dynasty which was between 1766 and 1027 BC when war chariots carried a three man team consisting of a driver, lancer and archer.

It was during the ensuing Zhou dynasty between 1027-256 BC that the Chinese nobles at court liked to attend archery sporting tournaments that were accompanied by music and much fanfare.

The Chinese introduced civil archery to Japan around the six century and it had an overriding influence on later techniques and etiquette. One of Japan’s martial arts now known as kyudo (way of the bow) continues to be taught in Japan in the traditional manner. A bow over 2 metres long and made of bamboo, wood and laminated strips is used for shooting a target set in a roofed over bank of sand.

During the Geco-Roman period, the bow was utilized more for personal exploits or hunting than it was for warfare, Archery is frequently depicted on pottery dating to that time.

The Romans are not believed to have been very good archers, more than likely because up until the 5th century the bows they used were shot by drawing the string back to the chest rather than the face which gives the arrow far more accuracy.

Enemies such as the Parthians had far better skills; they were accomplished horsemen who were able to shoot backwards by swivelling around in the saddle often at full speed.

The superiority of the archery equipment and techniques used by the people of the Middle East continued for centuries. Attila the Hun and his Mongols, using Bows similar to those of the Parthians and Assyrians, conquered much of Asia and Europe and the Crusaders were thrown back by Turkish archers.

The bow was a means of survival during the days of English and later American colonization and still is in some countries on the African continent

The popularity of archery has also been reflected in many songs and folklore, probably the most famous being Robin Hood, but archery is also often referenced in Greek mythology.

The first known organized archery competition included 3000 participants and was held at Finsbury, England in 1583.

By the time of the European 30 Years War between 1618 and 1648 because of the introduction of the gun, it had become clear that the bow and arrow as a weapon belonged in the past.

Since that time, archery is has become extremely popular as a recreational sport.

Linda Thompson is webmaster of http:Discount Archery Shop where you can get all your discount archery needs from bows,arrows and accessories to targets. We have a full range of bows and arrows. Check our prices!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Linda_Thompson
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The pair of boots I have now are uncomfortable, and without sufficient insulation to deal with cold weather. So I think I’ll get some new boots this year. But I might actually have to get two pairs. You see, it’s going to be all warm, sometimes wet, and usually snakey. Then the winter is going to come on and the ground is going to freeze through the sole of my boots while I stand in one place for three hours.

Should I try to find one middle-ground boot that is warm enough for the cold, but not too warm for the warm? Should I get a pair of light snake boots and then some waterproofed, gore-tex, thinsulate, space station boots for the winter? I don’t know. I have some experience with combat boots, but not so much with hunting boots.

Buy for your climate, you say. Well, yes, that’s why I’m considering two pairs. But I’m going to be honest with you, I’m cheap. I need some new archery gear this year, too. If I get two pairs of boots, then my wife is just going to scowl at me when I go to buy the bow or crossbow (I haven’t decided yet). What to do…what to do?

Right now I’m looking at some snake boots, and also some boots with heavy insulation, waterproofed, and all that jazz. Do any of you who are more experienced with hunting boots have any advice for me? Maybe I should just get some desert tan combat boots for the warmer weather, but that won’t help me with the snakes. I guess I just don’t need to step on the snakes, but I’m trying to be cautious here.

I took my Marlin 336W .30-30 out to the range this past weekend. I love shooting that rifle. This was the first time I fired some of my LeveRevolution ammo by Hornady. It’s good stuff. Feels smoother than the Power Shok rounds I had from Wal-Mart. Though it still kicked like a miniature mule. My shoulder was a bit sore after firing 40 rounds.

I shot some freehand, standing, and then sat down on the bench for my longer shots. I’ve never been much of a rifleman — preferring pistols to rifles — but I think that’s gonna change. Since I’ve started deer hunting, becoming proficient with a rifle is a must. And for a beginner, I think I did pretty well. I had decent groups at 25 – 75 yards, both freehand and with support. I even hit the target when it was at 100 yards. A fair accomplishment, since I was using the stock iron sights on the rifle. No scope or glowing sights of any kind. But at 100 yards the front sight post covered up the entire target.

Still, I think I’ll keep that rifle without scope. It’s short and easy to move with through rough woods. I’ll just have to get a nice bolt action rifle with scope to hunt deer in the large open areas. Once I find some large, open areas, that is…

It’s frustrating to go out into the woods and see nothing. Likewise, it’s also frustrating to have hunters walking all over the deer path you know the deer would travel were it not for the intruding humans.

Man, I need to buy some land so I don’t have to deal with other hunters on the land I’m hunting.

No deer! I haven’t seen any deer yet. I think I might have heard one crossing the creek behind the brush line, but I can’t be sure. It could have been some loud ducks.

Weekend number two of modern gun deer season is looking rather dismal. Maybe it’s this ridiculous heat. I had to wear a t-shirt hunting this afternoon. It was 70 degrees!

Maybe It will cool off next weekend and I can bag some animal.

It’s important to stay warm when out and about during the winter, and with winter coming right around the corner, I thought I would tell you guys about a new category at my gear shop. The new category is Cold Weather Gear, and it contains only two items right now. But those two items are important to keeping you warm. And who knows? By the time you read this, I might have more products in that category.

Check out my cold weather gear and buy some to stay warm.

I hold the personal belief that the knife is the single most useful thing ever invented by man. I also am of the mind that one should have a particular knife for a particular job. Now, sure, there are some great “utility” knives out there, suitable for a wide variety of purposes. That’s how I look at my CRKT pocket folder. It’s tough and it’s handy.

But it’s not really going to cut it (pun shamelessly intended) when I gut a deer. So I bought a new knife today. I bought a Gerber fixed blade hunting knife with gut hook. It’s nothing fancy, and wasn’t expensive. But it’s something I needed, and I’ve already taken it out in the field. Of course, it didn’t get any use, but it will.

I’ll give a full review with pictures after I have the chance to use it. Well, I might just snap some photos of it tomorrow and post them so you can see what it looks like. Preview: Full tang construction with a grip-friendly hard-rubber…grip. The blade is 4 inches long and coated with titanium. It’s sharp enough, it seems, and the gut hook is a nice feature that doesn’t stick out too much. The knife also came with a basic nylon sheath. It’s a nice knife, especially considering how much I paid for it ($22 at Wal-Mart). I’ll see how it holds up to some real use and abuse — I demand serious performace from my gear, which my wife says is just being too hard on it all.

Since my bow broke, and I haven’t been able to acquire a new one, it looks like I’ll just be hunting deer this year with modern firearms. Further, my budget isn’t going to allow for me to buy a rifle (unless I find some mystery money), so I’ll just be hunting with my shotgun… and XD if I’m in the mood for some handgun hunting. Though, the XD is just a 9mm, so I would have to keep my shots really close for the rounds to be effective.

So…what do I need to get for my shotgun to make into a world-class deer slayer? I took down a nice 8 point buck with it last year, but I was presented with quite a fortunate shot. I might not get such a shot this year. My setup right now is this: Maverick 88 Field 12 gauge shotgun, firing slugs. That’s it. the shotgun is stock, with a modified choke. I’ll be using rifled slugs.

One thing I really need is a sling. As I learned last duck season, hiking long distances with it is a pain. So I’ll be getting a sling and I will also have to get a swivel kit for it. I think Uncle Mike’s makes one for my shotgun. I think they make a universal kit. I’ve seen it before, and I’m not going to look it up now… Just look at Wal-Mart or Bass Pro or Cabela’s and you’ll find it.

There’s one (two) accessory(ies), what else do I need? I’m just using the stock bead sights on it, but I was thinking of getting some iron sight attachments that affix to the barrel ribbing. They might make my accuracy just a bit better. But I really don’t know. I haven’t been out to a marked range with a bunch of 12 gauge rifled slugs to see just how far I can reliably hit a 4 inch circle with the bead sights.

I plan on keeping my shots all within 50 yards, but if I can squeeze out a little bit more with better sights and maybe a different choke, I will. That’s something I’ll need to research — chokes. I might need to invest in just a little bit of choke to squeeze a little bit more range and accuracy out of my slugs. But, I don’t know much about shotgun chokes so I’ll just have to do some reading.

Any other thoughts, opinion, or advice would be appreciated.

It’s been a while since I’ve posted anything here. But don’t worry, I’m still here.

I think I’m going to have to just stick to gun hunting this year, with modern weapons. My budget is totally shot, and since my bow broke, I’ve got nothing for archery season. I don’t have the money right now to buy another bow, and I don’t feel comfortable spending money on a muzzleloader, either. So, it looks like I’ll be using my shotgun to hunt deer again this year. And only during any Arkansas modern gun season.

There’s some public land not too far from here that has a modern gun season, so I’ll have to do some scouting out there soon. Then there is also some private land I may be able to hunt on. Hopefully my son and I will both be able to get a couple. Of course, then I would have to invest in a chest freezer to store all that meat.

Squirrels are not as easy to hunt as I thought. I have been out to the woods twice, and I still haven’t even seen one where I was. I have seen squirrels out in the woods before, but never while hunting them. They aren’t like city squirrels…these suckers hide from you.

I parked myself at a hickory tree for twenty minutes and didn’t see or hear anything. So I moved to another hickory tree and waited. Still nothing. I repeated this for two hours. This tells me that either a) I wasn’t waiting long enough, b) there weren’t any squirrels in that area, or c) I suck at squirrel hunting.

I’m leaning toward a combination of a and c, but maybe with some b thrown into the mix.

Maybe I’ll have better luck next Saturday.

Face it, squirrels are everywhere. When stuck in the woods somewhere, you’ll need to eat. The food you carry with you will only last so long. You may need to find another source of food to get you through to safety.

It seems that eating squirrel has a certain stigma to it. But I don’t care about any negative reputation. Plently of people around here love to hunt the little furballs, and enjoy eating them. I’ve personally never killed or eaten squirrel, but I plan to in a few short days. Since squirrels are such a readily available animal, I thought I would learn how to hunt them and prepare them for eating, in case I need to eat them in an emergency. Having previous experience with the animal may mean I won’t have to work as hard to win a meal.

Besides the survival training aspect of squirrel hunting, I think it will just be fun. Think about it. I’ll be out in the woods with my shotgun (I don’t currently have a .22). I’ll practice my marksmanship, my woodland navigation skills, and learn about squirrels. Those are some very useful survival skills that are also fun to practice. And as my wife will tell anyone, I need A LOT of practice with my navigation.

I’ll post a report with pictures after I go out. The season starts this Saturday, September 8th.

There I was, getting ready to practice with my bow when the unthinkable happened. I pulled back, released my arrow, and heard a loud and very strange twang. I looked at my used Browning Ballistic Mirage compound bow and noticed one of the cables dangling. This may be a repairable issue, but I just don’t trust it any more.

I guess I’m going to just have to buy something different. The trick will be to get it either A) without my wife knowing until it’s all said and done, or B) something my wife agrees to. My wife worries about money, and so do I. But this is just about a necessity. I’ll figure out a way to make it work, but if I could avoid a woman’s scorn, I will.

I might try to get something used, just to get through this season, but I’ll just have to see what’s out there. I’m going to try to make some extra money, but I need to get whatever I’m getting really soon. Archery of any kind takes practice! And if I get a longbow or recurve, I’ll need a lot of practice.

There’s a new forum out there focused on the outdoors. Hunting, fishing, camping, and basically anything else. Now, I know a lot of you guys already have a favorite forum, but that doesn’t mean you can’t give another one a try.

This outdoor forum is called Hardwood Hollow. It’s new, and there aren’t many members yet, so get over there and help shape the tone of the board. The forum is definitely outdoor-based, but there’s always room for survival topics to be discussed.

If you like what you see, join in the discusssions. You might learn something, or you might teach someone. It’s Win-Win!

Go click that link and check it out.

While browsing various AR parts dealers online, I see that I have a lot to choose from. Not only are there several configuration variations for the AR platform (A2, M4, A3, etc.), but there are a wide variety of calibers available.

The first thing I have to do is decide on what kind of rifle I want to build. Do I want a general defensive rifle, that will take the very easy to find 5.56mm/.223 cartridge, or do I want a heavier-hitting .308? Likewise, I could opt for a 9mm carbine or the slow but heavy .450 Hornady.

Money doesn’t grow on trees in my yard, so it would probably make sense to get something that could be considered all-purpose. The .223 AR is a leading candidate for that. The problem with that round is that I hunt deer. While a .223 can kill a 150 – 200 pound animal, there’s little room for error. A more powerful cartridge would be better.

If I go up to a .308 or larger, the ammo starts to get more expensive. So practice with the rifle would be pricey. However, the .308 is a great all-around cartridge, suitable for a wide array of uses.

If I move up to the 6.8 SPC, I’ll get plenty of deer-hunting power, and have a rifle chambered in a round that is picking up popularity fast. So what do I do? 5.56mm, 6.8 SPC, .308, or one of the other chamberings? I could always buy a complete rifle and then buy different uppers and magazines, each one suitable to a particular purpose. But I don’t know if that’s what I really want to do.

The question is whether I want a rifle I can use for anything, or if I want to purchase rifles that were designed for a particular task. Should I build a 5.56/.223 AR for a defensive weapon and buy a rifle designed for hunting, or should I get one weapon for all seasons?

I need to decide that before I decide exactly what I want to build. I do plan on buying hunting-specific rifles, but having something all-purpose really appeals to me.

Guns are expensive. That’s the plain and simple truth. A quality firearm will cost you anywhere from $500 to $3000. Not exactly pocket change, I know. A lot of people I know don’t own any guns at all because they feel that they just don’t have the money to afford one.

Whether you are looking for a hunting tool, a defensive weapon, or just something that will give you hours of fun at the range, you don’t have to save paycheck after paycheck to get it. What you can do is buy the Maverick Model 88 Field. I bought one almost two years ago, and it’s a great little shotgun. Maverick is an offshoot of Mossberg, and the 88 is basically a bare bones version of the Mossberg 500. Barrels and chokes are interchangeable. Brand new, after taxes, I spent less that $160 on mine.

I know what you’re thinking… “What a cheap gun!” Well, cheap as far as money is concerned. Sure, there aren’t any bells or whistles on this shotgun, but thing works. It’s simple, and it works. I took a 200 lbs. buck with it last season, so I know it’s effective. This hunting season, I’ll be using it on squirrel, dove, deer, and duck. Based on its past performance, I am confident that it will get the job done.

The Maverick 88 is a 12 gauge shotgun, with a smooth-bore barrel that comes with a modified choke Accu-Choke installed. It is chambered to take 2 ¾” or 3” shells. The stock is black synthetic, which feels nice and keeps the gun light. I’ve taken a few pictures so you can see what it looks like. Now, I don’t have a proper photography studio setup, so the pics are kind of amateurish. I’ll get better with time. Anyway…

Here is the shotgun (most of it, anyway).

The barrel has standard ribbing to which you can attach clip-on sighting systems.

The integral recoil pad makes this a breeze to shoot. That pad will come in handy on a long day of shooting squirrels or doves.

If you don’t have much money to spend on a firearm, take a serious look at a Maverick Model 88 Field. It’s inexpensive, durable, and gets the job done. Head to your local gun shop and take a look at one.

I have finally made my decision about a hunting rifle. Now, I know that in the past I said I was going to get a surplus Mosin-Nagant to hunt with, but I don’t think I will now. I think I would rather have something a little more modern. Modern…ha.

I’ve chosen the lever action .30-30. New or used is fine, as long as it works, and is in good condition. I would, of course, prefer a new one. I chose this particular rifle (looking for a Marlin 336W, but I’ll take a Winchester 94) because it has a strong reputation for being an effective rifle for hunting Arkansas deer. The weight of the bullet and the muzzle energy is great for these hardwoods, where you rarely get a shot past 200 yards.

Like I could hit something 200 yards away…

Whatever particular rifle I end up with, I’m going with iron sights. No scope for me. My reasoning is based purely in practicality. I want to be a good marksman. And I’m going to become a good marksman by learning to manage stock iron sights. Only after I can regularly bullseye a target at 100 yards (and get really close to a regular bullseye at 150 – 200 yards) will I progress to a scoped rifle.

Not only will I have a reputed and proven rifle platform, I’ll have something with class. The lever action .30-30 has long been an American favorite. And though I embrace change, I also embrace and preserve tradition.

When I get my rifle — which could be months from now — I’ll post pictures of it here. I’ll also critique it, write an article about breaking down and cleaning it, and give a range report. I’m going to try out that LEVERevolution ammunition from Hornady, too. I’ll let you know how that goes in my reports.

I read an article today that made a pretty decent case for the .270 as an ideal deer hunting cartridge. The article was in the current issue of Peterson’s Hunting (August 2007). Technically, the piece was written from the angle of getting rid of (well, not hunting with) some too-weak, too-strong, or generally ill-suited-for-deer cartridges.

Once the “herd was culled,” as the writer put it, there were a few good old chamberings left. The writer touted the .270 as the best all-around deer cartridge. Apparently, it’s versatile enough to be effective against a wide variety of deer, and in a wide variety of locales.

I still haven’t bought my rifle for this next deer season, and this article was persuasive enough that my mind may be swaying. We’ll see how it turns out. And, of course, you’ll get some pictures when I get my rifle.

As summer starts to hit hard, making me sweat in the strangest places, I begin to think about this approaching hunting season. The way summers have gone for my entire life, fall will be here before I know it. Therefore, I need to start preparing now, lest I only bag one deer like last year.

This time, I want my son and I to take our limit of deer. Maybe duck, too. Today I came up with a short list of gear that I need to get before the fall.

• New archery target — got to get those arrows hitting the mark
• Arrows
• Slings for my and my son’s shotguns
• A Rifle suitable for taking deer at 100 – 200 yards
• Guthook knife for ease of field dressing
• Large cooler to age and drain of blood the quartered deer
• A Food Saver kit (those vacuum pack bags)
• Tanning supplies (not for me, for the buck skin)
• Duck call DVD so I can learn how to do it properly
• Waders, since I don’t have a boat and need some way of retrieving the ducks

I’m sure that I’ll need more than that, but it’s a decent list.

The AR platform has been a most-endeared rifle in this country over the past few decades. It’s success does not lie exclusivley in the realm of military and law enforcement, however. Sportsman and defensive-minded citizens have taken the Black Rifle to heart.

I would like to have one, but I’m not sure which one. Sure, there are several different styles of rifle, but there are also different calibers from which to choose. Assuming that I decide upon the 20 inch model, I still have a lot of choices. I could have a fixed or detachable handle, fold-down iron sights, optics, and all kinds of other options.

Regarding the caliber, I can choose the standard .223/5.56mm or go all the way up to the new and intriguing .450 “thumper” by Hornady. Since I am currently looking for a hunting rifle, the .450 sounds particularly interesting. It may be a bit excessive for the deer around here, but I still haven’t seen the ballistics on it.

I know a bit about this rifle, but not everything (I’m sure I probably won’t ever know everything). As I research the platform and learn more, I’ll chronicle the details here for you. So check back often.

I set out to find a hunting rifle, with the intent that it be somewhat utilitarian. I wasn’t just after a hunting rifle…I wanted a firearm that could serve multiple purposes if needed. Sure, if it’s decent and everything, it probably won’t be really good at one particular thing, like hunting, but in my search I was prepared to make that sacrifice.

While searching, I saw many great rifles, read some good reviews of weapons and one interesting critical analysis of the .30-06 cartridge. My decision is for the Mosin Nagant. That might seem like an odd choice for a hunting rifle. At close range, there might not be much venison left for me to eat, since I’ve heard that those rifles pack quite a punch.

My reasoning is based in pure practicality. Right now, I don’t make a lot of money, so I need to purchase a rifle that won’t put undue financial strain on the family. I can also get these rifles at quite a discounted rate once I get my C&R firearms license. That’s right, I’ve decided to go ahead and start my collection of old arms.

It’s been something which has held my interest since I was a child. Now, as deer season approaches, I see the opportunity to get some great rifles for the collection and also have some decent hunting rifles. Sure, they may not be ideally suited for deer slaying, but most of these rifles I will buy will have already proven themselves. Some may have been used in actual battles. So I’ll have a little piece of history.

I’m not going to get my license right away, because I will be moving soon. It would be kind of pointless to get something that is directly related to my physical address, and then move a couple of months later. So, I’ll wait until my wife and I pick out a house to buy, and then I’ll get the license and start buying Mosins. Now…do I want the carbine, or the sniper model?

While researching various long guns for this rifle search, I have learned that this isn’t going to be an easy decision. Simply put, I want them all. There are so many fine rifles out there, it’s going to be hard to choose.

I have looked at all sorts of rifles — semi-auto, bolt-action, lever guns, old war horses, and modern combat weapons. There’s clearly a lot to choose from, so how do I narrow it down? I could shop by pure economy, purchasing the cheapest rifle I can find that has sufficient power. On the other end of that spectrum, I could go for a really nice, high-end rifle in use by troops and police officers worldwide. Taking a different approach, I could shop based on task-specific criteria, such as buying a rifle that has been fully designed as a deer hunting rifle. You see where I’m going with this? How do I decide?

If I base my decision on pure utility, options both expensive and inexpensive come to mind. For example, the Springfield M1A Scout rifle would be an excellent all-around weapon with a history of reliability. Unfortunately, those are terribly expensive. An inexpensive option would be to purchase a mauser, mosin, or sks. Those rifles have proved themselves throughout history, but they don’t cost a lot.

Which brings me to a recent discovery. Well, I didn’t really discover it recently, but I did learn details about it recently. I could always get a Curio and Relics federal firearms license and just buy some of these historically proven and still serviceable rifles online and have the shipped to my door. These licenses are cheaper than I thought, and since I’m a good citizen, I’ll qualify for one. If I do go this route, not only will I be able to get some great deals on some field rifles, I’ll be able to have a collection of these historical weapons–something that has been an interest of mine since childhood.

Regardless of what I choose, I still want them all. Right now, based on my family’s financial stature, I think that I’ll need to go with a more economical firearm. But that still leaves the question of utility vs. specific purpose. Do I want to get an older rifle that is really cheap (inexpensive, not shoddy craftsmanship), or save a bit more and get a task-specific rifle? I don’t know, but I imagine that my continued shopping and research will lead me to the answer.

Choosing a rifle that would be suitable as a basic all-around utility weapon is my goal. I mean that I am looking for a rifle that is both field-ready for hunting large game and also battle-ready for defending my family. I’ve come up with some basic criteria that I will use when shopping for a rifle. I don’t just want some bullet-slinger, but rather something with a bit of elegance.

Here are some of my basic criteria:

• Reliability
• Availability of ammunition
• Ease of carry and handling
• Accuracy
• Stopping power
• Availability of spare or expansion parts

I am looking for a round with enough stopping power to take down a whitetail deer without too much of a risk of merely wounding it. That pretty much rules out the .223. I know that many deer have been killed wih a .223, but in the thick hardwoods that I hunt, I’m afraid that it’s just not enough bullet to be a reliable slayer of deer. Prove me wrong if you can, because I would love to buy an AR-15.

I would like to get a rifle that is somewhat common, that way I can get spare parts and accessories at most gun shops, instead of having to search around for them. However, this isn’t really such a big deal since one can find just about anything online. Still, it’s a consideration of mine.

Since I am looking for more of a utility rifle, meaning that it will plausibly serve more than one purpose, I may not go with the standard bolt-action hunting rifle. In a defensive situation, when my pistol is not near or ready, a bolt action rifle would be cumbersome. Even so, this is just a minor consideration, since my shotgun would also make a fine defensive weapon.

Cost is something else that I must unfortunately consider. This is really too bad since there are some amazing and well-reputed rifles that cost over twelve hundred dollars. I would not be able to disclose such a figure to my wife, no matter how well off we are at the time of purchase.

Check back for part 2 of this series, where I will have a few rifle considerations, and why I am looking at them.